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Boobism and Cubism No one expects the Clickkeyword[The+Metropolitan+Museum+of+Art]" >Metropolitan Museum of Art to mount a production of No, No, Nanette on 83rd Street, but couldn t they at least spring for a Victrola and a 78 recording of Bye Bye Blackbird? The atmosphere at the Clickkeyword[The+Costume+Institute]" >Costume Institute s "Cubism and Fashion" exhibit is so arid, the corpselike mannequins so dreary, the whole enterprise so pedantic, you want to jump into a Model T and head for the nearest roadhouse. Of course, noneof the Met s costume exhibits are helped by being located in the basement of the museum, an airless pit situated directly under the Egyp tian mummies. But extreme circumstances call for extreme remedies: Fashion Moncler Mens Down Jackets With Hat Dark Blue In addition to cranking up that Victrola, why doesn t the Met project Clickkeyword[Joan+Crawford]" >Joan Crawford in Our Dancing Daughterson the nearest white wall? The liquored up, Freud obsessed, exhibitionist flappers who once wore these clothes deserve as much. Instead, the Met attempts to illuminate the period by befuddling hapless tourists and students with wall placards that say stuff like, "Along with flatness and visual interdeterminacy, cubism promotes Fashion Moncler Clairy Dowe Jacket Blue the aesthetic atomism of vision over the integers and illusions of the whole that has prevailed for centuries." It s enough to make Clickkeyword[Jacques+Derrida]" >Jacques Derrida call it quits and repair to the gift shop. Which is a shame, because there are some interesting clothes here. The heavy as lead, just above the ankles World War I woolen suits (in their own way a radical improvement over the swaddling turn of the century Worth gowns displayed nearby) provide a breathtaking contrast with Clickkeyword[Chanel+SA]" >Chanel s famous little black dress reposing a few showcases over. Designed less than a decade after the suits, Chanel s jersey vision is a dazzling window on the future. It wasn t only the haute bourgeoise Chanel customer whose sartorial life changed so dramatically in so short a time. If you d like to know exactly it is: one dress, one step in, two stockings, two shoes. . . . The skirt comes just an inch below her knees. . . . The idea is that when she walks in a bit of a breeze you shall now and then observe the knee. . . . They are being worn by ladies who are three times Jane s age, and look ten years older; by those twice her age who look a hundred years older." The literature of the period is full of Jane s sisters. Hemingway s circa 1926 Clickkeyword[Brett+Ashley]" >Lady Brett Ashley "wore a slipover jersey sweater and a tweed skirt, and her hair was brushed back like a boy s. . . . She was built with curves like the hull of a racing yacht, and you missed none of it with that wool jersey"; the flapper debutantes of Fitzgerald s Saturday Evening Poststories could be found "on all the corners around the Clickkeyword[Plaza+Hotel]" >Plaza Hotel, girls in short squirrel coats and long flowing skirts and hats like babies velvet bathtubs . . . hundreds of girls with marcel waves, with colored shoes and orchids. . . ." Unfortunately, the liveliness, the insouciance, the pure erotic energy dripping from every pore of these cosmopolites is entirely absent at the Met, which instead offers us metal mesh handbags entombed in glass cases (set up a fan! They should be swinging!). And why doesn t an exhibit that is supposed to be about cubism and fashion have at least one tight fitting cloche, a hat so cubist it turns the wearer s whole head into a sphere? But even the Met can t squelch the spirit of Clickkeyword[Lanvin+SA]" >Lanvin s black coat with white spiderweb embroidery, or Vionnet s ivory velvet wedding dress a gown so sinuous it seems to have stepped out of an Clickkeyword[Aubrey+Beardsley]" >Aubrey Beardsley drawing. As it turns out, the tenuous connection between fashion and art makes even the museum nervous. Clickkeyword[Rick+Martin+(Hockey)]" >Richard Martin, the Costume Institute s curator, laments in the show s catalog that the hackneyed "art and Moncler Women Down Jackets Ox Horn Buckle Collar Black fashion connection is the bane of the costume curator s professional life." But there isa relationship between art and fashion, just as there s one between jazz and fashion or the cinema and fashion: explosive social and aesthetic movements are occasions that require new clothes. A spectacular evening wrap in the exhibit has a pattern that looks like it was lifted from the curtain at Clickkeyword[Radio+City+Music+Hall]" >Radio City Music Hall; a coat and dress combo printed with a m of beige blocks is a sort of 3 D version of Duchamp s Nude Descending a Staircase. The more recent items in the show have a rather slenderer relationship with cubism, though that hardly diminishes one s enjoyment in seeing them. A floppy navy blue Clickkeyword[Comme+des+Garcons+Collection]" >Comme des Gar dress, like a schoolgirl s uniform on steroids, is just as exciting today as it was incongruous in the shoulder padded 80s; a strange gray cocoon coat by the masterful Clickkeyword[Charles+James]" >Charles James belongs so wholly to the imagination of its creator that it can owe allegiance to no particular decade or art movement. Escher. Sewn into its voluptuous lining is a label from Lord Taylor, a store now stocked to the brim with polar fleece pullovers and down filled car coats, working women s suits, and other hardy, practical clothing. Nary a whisper from the ghost of that evening wrap hooch guzzling, free thinking, flapper customer can be detected anywhere within its drab corridors.

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Border staff left red BORDER officials Moncler Down Vest Women Button Hat Wine Red in London were left red faced after storming a wedding they mistakenly believed was a sham. The couple Miao Guo, a 31 year old sales consultant at Prada, and Massimo Ciabattini, a 34 year old retail manager at Harrods were taking their vows at Camden Council registry office in King Cross when flak jacketed Home Office staff interrupted. The couple, who met when working for Harrods, had been flagged up by a registrar after they had trouble spelling each other surnames and because the bride visa was expiring in six weeks. The officials from Immigration Enforcement, previously the UK Border Agency, realised their mistake after a rigorous 30 minute interrogation of the bride, groom and bridesmaids. Unfortunately for the border staff, they had invited the local newspaper, the Camden New Journal, along for the raid to promote their work. They told the newspaper that they are "duty bound" under the Immigration and Asylum Act 1999 to investigate any "red flags" from registrars but that the couple answers to questions about their relationship and life had matched up perfectly. One added that the fact the couple were "extremely good looking" and wearing expensive, tailored clothes, Moncler Germany including a real Chanel handbag, would have been a clue that it was genuine as visa weddings are frequently performed by "mismatched couples" who turn up for the service in anoraks. Guy Taylor, a spokesman for the Joint Council for the Welfare of Immigrants, a charity campaigning for greater justice in UK immigration, described it as an "appalling mistake". He questioned why better checks had not been made on the couple beforehand. "It does devastate wedding days," he said. "This is a life event where people expectations, money and energy are being poured into this one Moncler Made In day and the Home Office don seem to care about ruining it by not making better background checks." on Border staff left red faced over wedding sham gaffe

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